Enitan Agidee

Owner of Healthy Hair Studio, Enitan is a trichologist and the UK's first hair coach.

You filled a gap in the afro hair market after years of sub-par salon experiences - how did you acquire the knowledge to become an authority on healthy hair?

I don’t think we filled in a gap. Instead, I think we introduced an eruption of awareness. I say this because to fill in a gap means there was already an opening and we fitted into that opening.

When we started the education, some people weren’t even aware that hair coaching was even a possibility. Many were seeing this for the very first time that this could be achieved with afro hair. What we did was introduce an eruption of awareness, so that people could begin to ask questions like ‘how is this possible?’, ‘what do I need to do?’ and ‘who can help me?’.

In terms of how I acquired the knowledge, I studied in order to understand the ingredients, styling and how to investigate using a scientific approach on scalp and hair.

There’s a misconception that afro hair can’t grow long. What has fuelled this belief?

To believe something, a person needs to have seen it or have a strong conviction that it is possible, even if they are still yet to see it.

Before social media became popular, many people had never seen long and thick afro hair in  close proximity. They didn’t care about what they saw on TV or in magazines, because it was likely unrelatable, meaning the person didn’t have the same complexion or wasn’t in the same demographic area.

The correct information was not easily accessible, and products targeted at very dry hair weren’t created by black women who had the resources to reach a wider audience.

Both the science, research and peer reviewed studies on black hair didn’t exist in the numbers that would allow for those with the resources to create products effectively enough for black hair.

So, historically, the idea was to change it rather than learn about it. Therefore, many people believed black hair doesn’t grow because there was no reference point explaining that it could grow if you did ‘x, y and z’.

Healthy Hair Studio Moisture Hold & Mighty Moisture
Healthy Hair Studio Moisture Hold & Mighty Moisture

What causes hair breakage and how do we avoid it?

You can’t avoid breakage on a fiber that has intentionally been designed and created to be dry, and because it has been structured to be dry by default, it means it was also designed to break.

You can’t avoid the result of breakage on something that was designed to do just that: break.

Therefore, a different understanding must be applied which is: since I can’t avoid breakage, how do I reduce the rate at which it breaks?

Breakage can be caused by grooming, the type of products used, the tools used on the hair and even the materials that the hair is wrapped in at night - or the lack of what it is wrapped with.

Fairy knots are frustrating for all hair types, but especially those with textured hair. What should you do if you notice an increase in fairy knots in your hair?

Static energy on the hair can create an increased level of knots and so can increase split ends, therefore, cutting split ends would help.

Hair that is not full of conditioning agents can also cause fairy knots, so I advise using a moisturiser that has the adequate formulation to keep the hair elongated and smooth, such as Mighty Moisture and Moisture Hold.

Changing the way the hair is styled can reduce knots. However, certain products can make knots worse; for example, if you have fine strands, it is not a good idea to use shea butter several times in a week - or at all for some hair conditions.

The Healthy Hair Studio Protein Defence has customers raving - but why is protein so important in relation to hair health?

Protein Defence helps with cuticle alignment. The more even the surface of the hair shaft, the better the health!

Unlike other protein treatments, this will not make your hair stiff because strength doesn’t equal stiffness. You want to be able to comb and twist your hair, and the hair should be resilient enough.

Healthy Hair Studio Moisture Hold & Mighty Moisture

Why can’t we just use protein-rich foods such as eggs in our homemade hair masks to increase the protein in our hair?

This will only impact the surface and don’t have the ability to fill and cracks and holes in the cuticles. The molecules are too large. Just because they are protein for nutrition doesn’t mean it’s the protein hair needs. Hair needs amino acids, like in our Protein Defence. If the hair needed food protein, why aren’t we blending meat too and using that on hair?! This how I want people to view protein for hair, with the likeness of amino acids, which are tiny building blocks that fortify hair.

What are your thoughts on keratin hair treatments?

As long as you receive a consultation from the service provider informing you of the risk, and the relevant care has been implemented, then you can make an informed decision about this kind of treatment.

A keratin treatment should not be carried out without a consultation. The practice itself doesn’t fall under healthy hair practice.

Summer is on its way! Is there anything we should do differently to improve hair health and length?

In the UK, the atmosphere is likely to be drier, therefore outdoor activities may dry out the hair faster, so ensure you use products with ingredients such as marshmallow root and behentrimonium methosulfate.

Excessive sun exposure can damage and bleach the hair, so make sure you don’t miss protein treatments, and cover the hair with a hat or mulberry silk scarves like the nudes4bed.

What’s the difference between lubricated hair and moisturised hair?

Moisturised hair is really a terminology used for consumer perception, as it originated from skincare. It means soft and flexible hair, and is used in reference to products like the Mighty Moisturizer.

Lubricated hair is shiny and mostly slippery hair, that’s not a result of a water based product, for example, Moisture Hold.

You drew a huge crowd at your John Lewis pop-up on Oxford Street recently. What’s next for Healthy Hair Studio?

This year in 2022, we are focused on brand visibility and securing a major retailer. We’re aiming for visibility increase on social media platforms, as well as non-social media campaigns like John Lewis and the TFL campaign we did in January this eyar. Lastly, we are looking to have a higher conversion rate for those who visit our site and actually complete a purchase.

Visit Healthy Hair Studio at healthyhairstudio.co.uk

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