Since its inception, the mainstream beauty industry has promoted eurocentric beauty ideals, often leaving peop;le of colour in the dark about how we should care for our skin. However, innovators like Dija Ayodele are pioneering change in this field, making skincare advice and information accessible for all with her platform Black Skin Directory. Here, she talks about the importance of skincare initiatives for POC and becoming Cantu’s Skin Expert.
Tell us a fun fact about skin?
Melanin cells are a similar shape to octopus with lots of spindly arms!
You’re well known in the industry. How did you first become interested in skin health?
Since I was a small child, I used to watch my mum’s grooming routine and I was always fascinated with all the lotions and potions that she would use on her skin and how it would magically increase her confidence. I’ve always associated the act of skincare with happiness and esteem.
What does it mean to you to have your own skincare clinic and treat people of colour?
It means the world! It’s something I’m very proud of and worked very hard to create a space where women of colour can feel seen and understood both from a clinical and cultural point of view. I’ve listened too far too many Black women agonise over the provisions of the skincare and feel genuinely anxious and confused with an industry that generally didn’t speak to or include us.
You’re the founder of the Black Skin Directory. Tell us a bit about it and why it was important to start this initiative?
BSD for short is an online platform that provides skincare education and connects people of colour to skin care experts – from dermatologists to facialists. I set it up so that people of colour can gain access to knowledge and information to help them care for their skin, understand common issues and find a professional to help. Everything that I was hearing from my clients and from our research that was important, but missing.
Congratulations on becoming Cantu’s Skin Expert. What is it about the brand’s ethos that you most identify with?
I use Cantu haircare for my daughter, so I’m very familiar with their high-quality products for natural hair care and also their affordability for daily use. I really like that they encourage Black women to own their uniqueness and it resonated with me.
What are the most common misunderstandings when it comes caring for the skin on our bodies?
That we don’t need to do much! We often treat skin on our body like the poor relative and think that it can withstand harsh treatment. Some people are either not moisturising so skin gets dry and scaly or they are over exfoliating so skin is raw and sore!
What’s the difference between nourishing and hydrating?
Hydrating is all about putting water back into the skin. Nourishing is putting water but also essential nutrients back into the skin – so things like essential fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol. Think of it like this – hydrating = drinking water, nourishing = eating a healthy balanced meal.
When is the best time to moisturise our skin and maximise the benefits?
When the skin is damp is the best time to apply a moisturiser as you’re able to trap more moisture.
Black skin can often suffer from a lack of hydration. What are the latest skincare technologies or ingredients to help us restore moisture?
In addition to using nourishing moisturisers, using a body specific hyaluronic acid serum is also very clever as that helps us to hold on to and balance moisture levels. Using Alpha Hydroxy Acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acids in body washes is also great as they gently exfoliate and prepare the skin to receive moisturiser much more efficiently.
Some people say good skin is a matter of good genes. If you have troubled skin what can you do to improve the quality of your routine?
The best thing you can do is sit down with a Skincare Expert for a full and proper diagnosis and treatment plan. It saves you a lot of heartache and time experimenting with different products.
What do you hope the skincare industry will look like in 10 years’ time?
Definitely more inclusive and diverse at all levels from products but also to ownership and management structures. I hope that we will be celebrating our differences and realising that they are our unique power and that we all feel able to access and participate in skincare/beauty on an equal basis.
Celebrities like Alicia Keys have extolled the mental health virtues of going make-up free – but are there any physical benefits for our skin?
For sure, less product on your skin is definitely less opportunity for congestion and breakouts and that the big thing. You also reduce the additional bacteria load that make-up, brushes and implements and your fingers can add to the skin. Also, it allows your skin to find its own natural balance, so in time you know how to look after it better and identify its core needs.
Follow @Dija_Ayodele on Instagram.
